DOI SUTHEP TOUR – YES OR NO?

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Probably the most famous temple/sight in Chiang Mai is Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, the impressive temple perched on the hill top to the West of town. Together with the smaller jungle temple of Wat Pha Lat it is an absolute must see when visiting Northern Thailand.

Of course both were also at the very top of my list of things to do. And as I am generally not the biggest fan of tours, I was determined to explore these on my own. Read on to find out why I ended up taking a tour after all, what it was like, and what I would recommend.

Why I ended up booking a tour after all

Let’s be quite clear: You can definitely visit these two temples on your own without an organized excursion. And I was determined to do so.

So determined as a matter of fact that I almost didn’t get there at all. While absolutely doable, visiting Doi Suthep and Wat Phra Lat requires a number of decisions and some logistics, especially if you are staying to the East of Old Town like me.

You can hike but it may be challenging (and there may be dogs)… You can take a red truck but first have to get to Chiang Mai University… Grab might not work… You will have to wait for the truck to fill… None of these is a deal-breaker, but all together it was a bit much for me (skip to the end for all the info I have on this if you are braver than me).

Usually I am great at exploring on my own but Chiang Mai was the first stop on my six month Asia trip and I was still getting my feet wet. Everything was new and exciting but maybe also a bit challenging.

Anyway, I just kept pushing this excursion off. It seemed such a bother (and there was still so much to see in Old Town anyway). With four weeks in town I had plenty of time and there was no rush…

Until suddenly there really wasn’t that much time left. And I had to admit to myself that if I didn’t want to miss out on Chiang Mai’s most famous sight it might be best to just book a tour. Yes, it wasn’t what I had planned but at least it would get me there. And isn’t that what counts?

Tour Preparation

Booking my Tour

As you would expect, there were several different tours on offer for these two main sights. I spent quite some time trying to decide.

I did know that I wanted a half-day tour that only visited these two sights. And I usually book tours with plenty of reviews and excellent ratings. Eventually, I ended up booking this evening tour to Doi Suthep and Wat Phra Lat on Get your Guide for $ 24.33.

This was one of only two tours I booked during my four weeks in Chiang Mai. You can read all about my Ping River Cruise here.

Checking-in For the Tour

As I had been in Chiang Mai for a while and the town isn’t huge, I didn’t need a pick-up at my AirBnB and opted to start at the meeting point. The meet-up was at 4 pm at a drugstore along the Eastern City wall, so not too far from where I was staying. And for once it was easy to find – they sent a picture of the meeting location via the app and there was a sign there so no worries about being in the wrong place.

Of course I was still worried… But the van for pick-up was pretty much on time. I quickly climbed in and joined the other passengers that had been picked up at their hotels.

My Doi Suthep/Wat Phra Lat Tour

The Drive

The drive from the meet-up point to our first stop, Wat Phra Lat, took about 35 minutes. There is quite a bit of traffic around Chiang Mai so getting to the other end of town took longer than I would have expected. Once we passed the University area, the road got a bit curvy but it wasn’t too bad.

During the ride our guide gave us some information about what to expect. She also gave each of us a small bottle of water, so for once it didn’t matter that I again forgot!

First Stop: Wat Phra Lat

Wat Phra Lat is a mountain temple with monk school and quite different from most of the other temples in Chiang Mai. No gold or jewel-encrusted statues here!

It is built in the much simpler Lanna style and due to its location on the mountain has a distinct jungle vibe. Think Jungle Book!

Wat Phra Lat has a much more austere vibe than other temples in Chiang Mai

We got there around, about minutes before they close. First, our guide showed us around the main sights of the temple and gave us some information. Then we had some time to explore ourselves.

Apparently, this pagoda is more impressive during the rainy season when it is covered with moss. But I liked it just fine as is (and appreciated the lack of rain).

Walking around I saw the path through the trees that you take if you hike up to Wat Phra Lat. It did look really fun. On my next trip to Chiang Mai I will definitely try walking up as this first part is supposed to be doable (takes about 30 minutes I think).

My favorite part of Wat Phra Lat was a building to the side that looked like it was straight out of a movie. Maybe an Indiana Jones one? There were quite a lot of people around so it was hard to get a good picture but it did get a bit quieter while we were there.

Doesn’t this look unbelievable?

While I was in Chiang Mai I read that the monks are thinking of closing Wat Phra Lat to tourists because too many either dress or act inappropriately. As with any Thai temple they want you to dress modestly (i.e. covered shoulders/upper arms and knees). They also frown on doing yoga, climbing on statues for photos, PDA etc. You get the picture.

My advice: Just be respectful and act the way you would in your own house of worship. Not only is it the right thing to do but it would also be sad if visitors in the future would no longer be able to come here.

One of the main reasons I prefer travelling independently is that you are often rushed on tours. But I would say we had enough time to look around properly and take plenty of photos. There was not enough time to meditate/read/sit for a longer time (unless you didn’t want to take pictures/explore) but that was as expected. In total we spent about 45 minutes at this serene mountain temple.

This would make a great place to meditate or read if you visit independently

We left Wat Phra Lat just before 5:30 pm as dusk was falling and they were getting ready to lock it for the day. You could really tell the difference in atmosphere between when we first arrived and when we left. It got much quieter and more peaceful.

Just before closing time it gets much quieter (and easier to take pictures)

All in all, I loved the visit to Wat Phra Lat. I hope to get there again with more time to soak up the atmosphere but it was a great first introduction.

Second Stop: Doi Suthep

We hopped back into our van and drove on towards Doi Suthep higher on the mountain. There were more winding roads and it took about 30 minutes to get from Wat Phra Lat to our second stop.

Here we had to make a choice: Either climb up the steps of the Naga staircase or take the cable car/elevator for a small additional charge (20 baht). Each guest could choose independently so we split up at that part.

I decided to venture the steps. Not because I love climbing stairs but to see it properly and get some pictures.

As soon as we got to Doi Suthep I noticed the different vibe from Wat Phra Lat. This was clearly a major sight in the area and set up for loads and loads of tourists with all the amenities as well as commercialism that entails.

There were plenty of shops for souvenirs and temple paraphernalia.

It was almost 6 pm by the time we got to Doi Suthep and you could tell that it was less busy than in the middle of the day. A definite advantage!

Anyway, I am glad I took the stairs but it was quite exhausting. Maybe more exhausting than some of us had anticipated.

I didn’t want to embarrass myself by being the slowest and making everyone else wait on me (a disadvantage of tours) so hustled as good as I could. Turns out it wasn’t necessary as I was one of the earlier ones and we waited for a bit. Not unwelcome after the exertion!

I would say climbing the stairs is quite doable but if you have knee problems or other health concerns, just take the lift. It isn’t expensive and you can just as well look at the stairs from the top.

While we were waiting, the guide bought our entrance tickets as these were already included in the price of the tour. If you visit on your own you can just buy them there for 50 baht, so quite affordable.

Our guide pointed out some of the main sights and told us more about the history of this temple as well as Buddhist customs and life in Thailand.

The most interesting to me was definitely this statue of a white elephant. According to legend, they followed a white elephant as it walked from Chiang Mai up to Doi Suthep and built a temple wherever the elephant rested. When the animal got to the top it lay down and died so they built the temple there. Doesn’t sound the most auspicious sign ever to me but that is apparently how they decided on the location.

In contrast to the stone, wood, and nature style of Wat Phra Lat, Doi Suthep gleams with gold, brilliant white, and jewel-colors.

Like at all Thai temples we had to take our shoes off to go inside. So make sure to wear ones that are easy to slip on and off.

Finally we made our way to the main event: The big golden stupa. It is 24 meters told and gold-plated. It really is a stunning sight!

Here we had enough time to take photos, walk around the Chedi (apparently it brings good luck to do so three times), and check out the various statues and niches.

We were also lucky as it was time for the monk chant and we could go and watch/listen for a bit if we wanted.

We spent about one hour looking around the temple grounds and to be honest I thought that was basically enough time. I loved visiting but didn’t feel I wanted much more time (but maybe I was just getting tired after a long day in the sun).

At the end we still made our way to an outlook for a stunning view over Chiang Mai at night. Now you may think the photo doesn’t look that special. But please believe me that this is due only to my poor camera skills. The reality was stunning!

We spent another 15 minutes or so admiring the view and then walked slowly back to the elevator/steps. On the way we had a chance to admire the temple grounds at night. So different and still equally beautiful.

At the end there was time to visit the rest room and we even waited a little on some people that wanted to buy elephant pants at the gift shop.

In case you are wondering, I did take the cable car down. Not of course because I wanted to avoid the exertion, but purely for the experience so I could report here (yeah, right). Of course I forgot to take a picture but let’s say it is convenient to take the lift but nothing special. If you only take the lift on the way down you put the payment in a box at the top.

Return to Town

Once we were all back in the van we drove back to Chiang Mai. The plan was to drop some guests off at their hotels before ending at the meeting-point. However, some in our group asked to be let out at the Night Bazaar. As my apartment was only a block or two away, I decided to join them and saved myself the walk back from the meeting point.

I didn’t make notes about how long the ride back took (how embarassing) but based on my photos I was back in my room at 9 pm with food I bought at the Night Bazaar, one of the best night markets in Chiang Mai. So the ride must have taken about an hour.

What if I don’t want to take a tour?

I completely understand – I didn’t either. And if you are slightly more proactive and organized than me you can visit both Doi Suthep and Wat Phra Lat independently. Plenty of people do every day.

Here is the basic information I have on how to do this:

getting to Wat Phra Lat/Doi Suthep on your own

You have several potential options:
1) Take a Grab: This would be the easiest though not cheapest way. However, I have heard that it may be difficult to find a Grab willing to take you there. As I didn’t try I can’t give much input but you could give this a shot.

2) Hike up: You can walk up to Wat Phra Lat (and further on to Doi Suthep) from near the Zoo/University. It should be easy to get a Grab to the starting point. The hike to Wat Phra Lat is supposedly not that difficult and only takes about 30 minutes. The walk onwards to Doi Suthep is fairly challenging but doable if you enjoy hiking. Either way, make sure to have plenty of water with you.

3) Take a Songthaew: The best place to pick up one of those red buses to take you up the mountain seems to be from near Chiang Mai University. You might have to wait for the bus to fill up so this is best if you are not in a rush. You will also have to agree on the price with the driver (60 baht each way seems a good estimate).

Of course you can combine various options, for example hike to Wat Phra Lat and then get a Songthaew from there onwards to Doi Suthep.

Cost for an independent visit

As you know by now, I did not try any of these options. But based on what I saw, you would spend about 200 baht to visit both temples. In addition you would of course have to make your way to the Songthaew station from wherever you are staying.

Is there anything else to be aware of?

No matter whether you go with a tour or on your own, you should wear appropriate clothing for a temple. If you want to wear shorts/a skimpy shirt for your trip there, take some long pants (elephant pants are great for this) and a more modest shirt along to cover up.

Decent shoes that are easy to put on and take off are helpful as well. And do bring a little extra cash in case you want to take the elevator or buy anything when there.

If you plan to go on your own: Double-check to see if Wat Phra Lat is open for visitors. When I was booking my tour I saw that on some days this visit was replaced with a different sight. Apparently the temple sometimes is closed for spiritual reasons. It would be a pain to get there and not being able to get in!
I am not quite sure where you would find out about any closures though, other than on the Get your Guide page. But you could always check there even if you plan to go on your own.

When is the best time to go?

I loved, loved, loved being there at dusk/early evening. I honestly can’t think of any disadvantage to going then but plenty of advantages:

• It isn’t as hot
• There are way less people
• You can hear the monk chant
• You will be able to see Doi Suthep both at day and at night
• The night-time views are spectacular

Obviously, nice weather is a big plus as well so I would try for a sunny, not too hot day with clean air (best November to February).

Did I regret taking a tour?

Not at all! Actually I think this evening tour to Doi Suthep was perfect for me. This was once again a case where you end up being better off even though you were not happy at first.

The tour made it easy. To be honest I don’t think I would have managed on my own on this trip. Getting to the temples independently required more organization and energy than I had to spare. And while it did cost a bit more than an independent visit would have, the price was quite reasonable and the difference for a solo traveler wasn’t huge.

But I also genuinely enjoyed the tour. It was fun to talk to the other travelers – solo traveling can get a bit lonesome if you are not an extrovert. I learned a lot more about Thai history and culture than I would have on my own. And while I would have loved more time to relax at Wat Phra Lat, I felt we had plenty of time to see and experience Doi Suthep.

But most importantly I know I would not have visited Doi Suthep that late in the day on my own. I definitely wouldn’t want to hike there in the dark. And I would have been too worried to find a ride back down on my own.

Being there late in the day with chanting monks, beautiful night-time views, and hardly any visitors made my visit so much better! This definitely was the perfect option for me even though I was hesitant at first.

Doi Suthep at night without many visitors